Sunday 9^th November

Left hotel at 6.30 and in rain set off down a by-now bad muddy road. It was horrible driving but in 90 miles the road surface had been made up better – so a fast drive into Mashed. Went to bank and changed $200 into Riyals, Dollars and D-marks (good exchange costing us 1.75%). Came out of bank to find oil running out of rear right hand wheel. To VW garage and had repaired – was oil seal gone – not bad considering the terrible roads (thank God we had a VW – there’s been an agent in nearly every town we have been through).

Off towards the Afghanistan border aiming for the town of Turbat-i-Shaikh-Jam (38 miles short of the border). Thirty-five miles from the town the good road ended and foul gravel began. All the way to town. 

Stopped outside Turbet for dinner and drove in to look for hotel. Here we made big mistake by too much bargaining – ending up with poor room for 75 riyals instead of first offer of excellent room for 100 riyals. Ah well – justice for being too clever.