Monday 17^th November

Managed to change rupees for 8 $s and so having had breakfast in the Park Tea House (eggs, toast, jam, tea cost at our rate 1/1d!). Left Lahore and arrived at the borders, after buying some handicraft goods (earrings, wooden cigarette box and metal plates) with the rest of our P money at 10.30. All formalities were quickly dispensed with (including our encounter with a delightful female customs inspector) despite the “delay” warning from the AA. 

Got a shock in Indian - the petrol rating (70 octane!!) but the old car seemed to work. Driving is very difficult because of thousands of bikes (all being driven very erratically) and ox carts. The roads are quite narrow so to pass a vehicle both have to have two wheels of dust – ugh. I am still not feeling tip-top so by Ambala I had had enough for the day.

We found the rest house/bungalow and were given a suite containing huge bedroom, a dressing room, and bathroom (at our rate cost 9/6). We are going to have dinner here in the dining-cum-sitting room at a cost of 8/6. The place is super and you can just imagine what it used to be like full of travelling English. 

All the furniture is beautifully polished, high ceilings with fans, faded photographs, flowers in small bowls and pinned over the door of one of the four bedrooms is “Mayor General L D Cupta” - sign of the past!! The dinner was beautifully cooked followed by coffee. Tonight was the first night under the mosquito nets.