Thursday 28 August

Would you believe it’s raining again. We didn’t venture into town last night but stayed in the tent – listened to the rain and drank treble “wickeys”. Woke this morning and decided that because of poor visibility it was not worth going to the ski jumps.

Our first stop in the morning was the superb collection of The Vigeland Sculptures in Oslo’s Frogner Park. Custar Viegland (1869-1943) was a Norwegian sculptor who made a deal with the city of Oslo that if they would pay his housing expenses for 30 years, he would use that time to create a magnificent sculpture garden in the city’s Frogner Park.

The results is a unique collection of statues, all nude, depicting the lifecycle of man, from birth to death. Both joy and depression are felt when wandering along the statue lined avenue to the high hill showing Custar’s main works. I took many photos but these cannot express feeling – everyone should see this collection for himself (the old men were beautifully sculptured – I had not seen ‘age’ done before). From the park we drove down to the harbour, parked the car and, in front of the City Hall, purchased a bag of freshly cooked shrimps (we’ve just had the remainder for dinner on risotto). The shrimp boats come into harbour every day about eleven and after “cooking” in large vats on the decks. About 6 kronor buys a good day’s supply and these were eaten while sitting on the harbour wall – this means you can throw the shells into the water and pretend you’re feeding the gulls.

After our “snack” we wandered over to the City Hall. Built in 1950, it’s central hall contains the largest oil painting ever done – other rooms glitter with the best of Norway’s crafts and arts including “Life”, a painting by Edward Munch (of Munch Museum fame). Leaving the City Hall, we walked to the Post Office and sent letters off to Ma & Pa – both – and Ginny in Jordan. Next was the “main buy” in Norway of a pewter sugar spoon.

Regretfully we left Oslo on the E6 heading for Goteborg. Spent the last of our loose change on petrol and without fuss or formality (we didn’t see a customs man nor had our passports stamped), drove in Sweden. I should mention here that the Norwegian roads are generally bad but they are making a great effort to upgrade them and the new parts are good.

We both noticed a difference in the houses and scenery soon after the border (yes, the women are all blonde and wow!). Tried to find some rock earrings near Tenum but merely succeded in doing a long loop. Turned off the E6 at Ljungstate and headed for the camp site on the island of Tjom. On arrival at the site to find it devoid of people – caravans everywhere, some with neat gardens but no people. We had followed a GB in so found him and discovered that the place was officially closed but he had been here two days – free camping so up tent poles. The tent is on the shores of Hakefiord amid pine trees and within site of an awe-inspiring suspension bridge. It’s very peaceful – just had a good nosh. Tomorrow we will decide whether to stay a day or drive straight to Copenhagen.