Saturday 11 October

This morning, after an excellent meal cooked by John Sperring last night, we set out to find the Syrian consulate. The information office was wrong in their direction but with the help of one traffic policeman, 2 women, a shopkeeper and 1 senior police official (he looked very surprised when we walked into his office – but his door was open) who lent us a man from the station to take us.

Inside the heavily guarded building no one seemed to be doing anything but after 10 minutes a Syrian arrived at the desk, took our passports, went away and returned within 1 minute to say he could not issue them but the embassy in Ankara would. Looks hopeful.

                                          [Saint Sophia]

Two Americans – also driving the same way – were told last week no visas. This week visas, but not at the Embassy. Went back to John's and off for morning coffee with the Turkish BP Retail Manager. Drive round Istanbul then return for excellent lunch. John has some driving lessons to give so we went to the Bazaar. An amazing place, full of stalls and shops, selling everything imaginable. We bought an alabaster egg for John (supposed to be a fertility symbol!) and 3 trick rings in silver for Xmas presents. Back to flat to prepare for evening at [cannot remember name] Hotel nightclub.

Great fun – John was partnered by a divorced Turkish woman (PR of BPs) who obviously fancied him. Good food – splendid Turkish belly dancer and pop singer. Danced till 2.0 then home to bed.