Tuesday 30th September while "on holiday"

Tuesday 30th September

I thought that you might be interested in a few photographs that have not appeared to-date - while I spend time getting a tan. Diary back on October 3rd.

Monday 29  September / Thursday 2  October

As forecast the S & L [ Sound and Light] was great – got in for half price using YHA cards as student cards. Later to Plaka district for a souflaki (lamb wrapped in pancake). Early in morning packed camp and drove down to Pireep (Athens harbour) and parked car in multi-story car park for 4 days.

Onto ferry for trip via Tunos to Mylionos – 6 hour trip. Arrived about 3 after quite windy trip and were assailed by offers of rooms. 

Chose young girl and landed in good room with showers etc for 12/- a night – excellent value. American couple, next door, said they had lived in Nepal for 2 years - great - and wished they were doing our trip. We then settled down to four days of sunbathing on sandy beaches (first day very windy) and getting brown.

(No diary for 4 days although I will post a few photos that have not been included before)

 Cooking in our room was a bit dangerous as well had the small petrol stove with us but meant that we could have early morning coffee and tea instead of going out to café. Had good meal out of kebabs and retsina wine on Wednesday.

Trip back was a bit exhausting and we arrived back at 10.30 in the evening to find the car park well and truly shut up. After much walking, it seemed all the cheap hotels in Pireas were full, a very sharply dressed Greek – later over ouzo discovered to be a crane driver – showed us to a cheap 15/- a night hotel in the red light area. So to the sounds of bumps, grinds and the strip – off to sleep. 

Sunday 28 September

Up early and first a trip out to Piraeno to check on parking re our trip to museum on Monday – seems okay so back into the city for our visit to the National Archaeological Museum. Here is traced the evolution of Greek art from the Neolithic era to Roman times. In the chamber of Mycenaean (where we visited from Tolon) we saw gold encrusted daggers sword vessel, jewel cases and the famous 18 carat gold death mask.

Also two exquisite gold drinking cups in the Repousse technique and representing the hunting and grazing of bulls. Next we walked through the chamber of the Archaic Art showing the development of statue work in burial chambers – perfect nude figures showing the increasing use of detail in body mussels. Next through the four chambers of classical art all from around the 5th century BC. The highlight here was the near perfect copper statue of Poseidon (Zeus) ready to hurl a bolt or trident.

This was found as recently as 1929 in the sea near Cape Artemission. Out into a patio for more examples of statues found under the sea. Back in again we walked through rooms displaying exciting pieces of sculpture. Pan, the nymphs etc. more wonderful bronze sculpture was seen, both large and small but the most beautiful statue is the jockey, boy of Marathon, riding a dolphin – remember Sophia Loren’s film boy on a dolphin.

Finally through halls displaying Mycenaean and Attic pottery urns. Before we left we bought two large colour prints to display on the wall in NZ. Next to the Flea Market on Ipratstou Street. Lots of stalls, lots of junk and some good items. A bought a bag and I got some worry beads. From there via the Royal Palace to see the guards in national costume and the National Park to the Acropolis.

 What a place, the superbly sculptured Parthenon (all pillar and roof are of such measurements that from any angle no perfect straight line is seen – even the columns vary 2-3 cms). This is a wonderful hill overlooking all Athens. No description just a plea to everyone – go walk around on your own – this is not a place for talk but thought and imagination. Tonight it’s off to see the sound and light and then a very early start tomorrow (8/8.30) for the island.

Saturday 27  September

Oh dear! I felt terrible – too, too much to drink, was rather sick and generally ill till about 5 in the afternoon. Poor Anne had a wasted day. In evening swapped food etc around from trunks etc and generally pottered about. Ugh!!

Friday 26  September

Pottered early morning and about 10.30 left for a day on the beach somewhere near Sounion. Into the city centre first to collect info from Shell Touring and American Express, then off along the very attractive coast road. This is a must route as the good road follows the sea for the whole of the 40 miles.

Near Athens we went past small harbours full of very expensive private boats. One in particular looked like an old tea trading schooner completely refitted. Took photo that included 3 boat, water skiing, and an airliner all framed by blue sea and skies. Passed an excellent beach at Voula an drove onto the peninsular at Sounion.

[This roll of film destroyed by developer - grr]

Looked as though the beach was exclusive to the hotel so drove back to rocky inlet and settled down for 5 hours of sunbathing, sheltered from the high winds. About 5.30 left for Sounion to the see the famous sunset. Had coffee in the restaurant then up to the hill top and a quick look at the ruins of the temple and then we settled down leaning against one of the pillars to watch the sunset behind the Island of Egina. A truly beautiful sight. 

A crowd of German behaved badly while taking pictures and hissing and shouting at anyone getting between their cameras and the sun. 

Took photo of them just for proof. Back along the coast road to Athens where we discovered Transit [Company that runs tours round Europe in mini buses] camped.

Met Graham and John and that night drove into Dafni (in bus) for the wine festival (5/- each and as much wine as you can drink). Greek dancing, music made it a good evening. (This festival occurs every September – worth a visit). Back to camp at 12.00 and talked with Graham and his girl friend till about 3.00 in the morning. 

Thursday 25  September

Woke this morning to hot, hot sun – so straight down to beach until 11.30 when we returned and packed camp. Left for Athens via Napflion to collect info on Corinth from Tourist Police.

Anne was asked out ‘till they realised I was with her – cheek! Very good literature from Tourist Police (one in every main town), well worth getting.

Arrived in Corinth after lunch and saw ruins from outside fence. Instead of going in we decided to drive up to the old castle on top of the hill. 900 metres up at Akrokorinth. This was the site of a temple of Aphrodite, where a thousand sacred prostitutes plied their trade in the goddess’ honour. The Byzantutes built a fortress (can you blame them!!) here, which was later enlarged by the Crusaders, Venetians and Turks in succession.

A lot of the ramparts and 3 “keeps” are nearly in tact. Walking over them you could just imagine men walking about in chain mail, carrying large shields with white or red crosses on them. In parts the grounds has been opened to reveal large pillared cellars. The outer wall cover a huge area – quite a walk but well worth it. 

Leaving there, we headed via toll motorway over the Corinth canal – A saw it (I was avoiding a Greek driver at the time) and said it was superb. Had trouble finding Camp Athens – no sign anywhere but eventually found it 3km back from the roundabout on the left s the drive into Athens. Looks a lively place – everyone here for the wine festival I guess. 

Wednesday 24  September

Quiet day today – spent this morning on the beach swimming etc and calculating mileages from Turkey onwards in the afternoon as the now familiar clouds had gathered and decided to go to Epidarus to see ruins and old port. 

This was a good trip – the theatre there is in perfect condition – a half circle with steps and “seat” going up at an angle of 450. Very high but from the top you could hear a penny being dropped onto a stone. (Isadora Duncan would have liked this – her democratic theatre personified).

The small tidy museum alongside the theatre contained very good statues and stonework from the “find”. We did not examine the rest of the excavations but they looked quite interesting. A false start on the wrong road delayed us getting to the Old Town of Epidarus with its attractive port.

A few colourful fishing boats completed the scene so this called for a coffee at a quayside bar. Returned to camp, via a grocer, to fill bottle with draught wine (2/6) and got ready for chicken nosh and ouzo. 

Tuesday 23  September

The wind blew all night, so neither A nor myself got too much sleep, so the 7.15 rise was not too difficult. Away from the camp, by 8.30, along the road to Corinth. We did not stop this time as we shall have more time on the return trip going to Athens.

We had some superb bread (from a proper bread shop, sold nothing else) for breakfast and lunch. Prior to lunch we saw some 1300 BC ruins at Mycenae – the walls of the city were 12’ thick with small doorways on 2 sides.

Arrived at Tolon and set up camp at camping Lido (cheaper than the others – has own beach). Quick swim and then rest after bad night. After evening meal talked to Transit drivers and discovered that there had only been two bad days during the past two months – the rain must be following us. That night walked along the only street, looked into the shops and returned to the bar overlooking the sea. Had bottle of wine and Greek coffee (expensive total 8/-!) and went to bed. 

Monday 22  September

Today is wash and do car day plus sun bathe and swim. Camp is very good with excellent facilities. Anne has managed to get a washing done – and dry (had no chance since Munich!) and I changed tyres round (slight wearing on inside of rear ones so increasing pressure to see if this cures it). Topped up battery and washed car.

Got two swims in during morning. If batteries on razor finish, I think I can run off speedo light (dimmed to reduce voltage to 1½) – 'tis not needed yet as still using main one but just a thought. Late afternoon we went into Patrai, bought some vegs and had some Turkish coffee near the seafront. Back to camp, had dinner, Turkish coffee at the camp bar and, due to the very high wind, went to bed early. 

Sunday 21 September

Spent a disturbed night, but not sorry bout using sleeperettes as opposed to cabin and arrived via Corfu at Igoumenitsa at 9.30. Through customs (took quite a while - and we were the quickest) and off on the road to Toannina (we were told by Shell Touring service on boat that the road due south had not been finished yet).

Talked to two girls (one had been in L/Rover to Bombay 3 years ago, said was a super trips – good!). 1 NZ and other English hitch round – very interesting and obviously having a good time. The road is not too bad as far as Toannina (with superb scenery) but after turns into a fast 2/3 lane highway all the way to the ferry for Patrai. We did not see any place to camp so decided to drive onto ferry and on to Camping Rion.

The weather is already good, temperatures are rising (quite hot in fact!) and oh how much more pleasant the people – in shops, garages and even the drivers! I actually got waved on once. The ferry service is very good and goes about every ½ hour. Full of people with worry beads but the boats seemed okay. Camping Rion looks good so after sorting out car (by now very muddied after rain etc) and good nosh down to water’s edge bar for two Ouzos pre bed. 

Saturday 20   September

Still raining so in between showers we packed tent and set off via Autostrada (don’t know why AA don’t mention this route) Saleno and Potenza.

Took sorter route to Scanzano on sea and found to our delight a superb motorway not marked on any map running right to the coast. Just short of Tarranto we both decided that it was crazy staying in Italy if this rain continued, so we would drive to Brindisi, catch the boat two days early and arrive in sunny Greece with days to spare.

This we did, arriving in Brindisi at 5 with the boat going at 10.00. Changed tickets without trouble (boat was half empty and other lines go the same way) and walked around the town – went into supermarket to restock with margarine, biscuits and cheese and set off for a pizza.

The best one without doubt is 3 turning up on the left and the first shop down the side alley. (This is from the grass square on the sea front)(It may not be open now!).

Here a fat man takes order and then you wait while your cheese, sausage plus “various extras” pizza is cooked. We had a total of 3 pizzas and 1½ litres of wine and the bill came to 1400 lire (including tip). Not bad. Got onto boat a little merry, found sleeperette and settled down for the night. 

Friday 19  September

A writes “The first day of Tone in sandals – and no socks!” – cheeky! 

Today woke just as rain finished so pottered about in mud for a bit then climbed down to the small fishing harbour back up to tent collect cheese etc for a bread based lunch - and off along the coast road as for a Amalfi. A very attractive drive but all in all I do not think the diversion to Sorrento is a worthwhile one.

The small beaches all have to be paid for and it seems everyone is out for “lire from the tourist”. All leaves rather a nasty taste. Tomorrow off to the beach at Pilsana prior to leaving Italy for Greece!

Thursday 18  September

Woke to no rain so hurriedly packed the tent and set of to find the Catacomb of Sebastian on the Appia Antica. Here for about 3/-, a monk showed us part of the eight miles of tunnel which were once the burial places of St. Peter and St. Paul. After the catacombs we drove south through Latina and onto the coast road at Sabandia. Miles and miles of sand beach here and so an "overdue" lunch was eaten.

On to see a women holidaying in a villa with some friends at Terracina. Had lemon tea and cakes, discussed the beautiful villas we had seen at S. Felice and left about 5.30 for the long drive to Sarrento. Driving through the chaos of Napoli traffic at night, with no idea of where to go is not the best of ideas – but eventually we arrived in Sarrento at international camping at 9.30.

The night drive along the coast road was fantastic – shimmering sea and twinkling lights. During the night it really rained – so much so that water was under the ground sheet. Thank goodness for a good tent. 

Wednesday 17  September

Another sightseeing day so up early and into town via bus 35, change to bus 64 for St. Peter’s Square and the Vatican City. Walking across the vast square, it is possible to imagine the Pope blessing the crowds (his window is top row second on right in the square building to the right of St. Peter’s). Inside the Basilica di San Pietro on the right just past the 15th century bronze doors is white marble “pieta” carried by Michelangelo at the age of twenty-five. 

This is a high church – the dome, again created by Michelangelo in 233 feet in circumference. The main altar is directly under this high dome with 7 smaller altars leading off. Downstairs in the vaults we saw tombs of Popes gone by. Next I went into the Vatican Museum (A had been before so sat outside reading). Here for 500 lire (how the church is “poor” and continues to beg for money is beyond me – the treasurers in this museum alone would feed Africa). I walked through the beautiful Sistine Chapel and Raphael Room plus picture galleries and apartments. Very beautiful.

Had lunch sitting on the pillars of St. Peters and then walked to Castle Sant’ Angelo. We could not of course use the famous escape corridor of popes last used during the sacking of Rome by troops of Charles V in 1527. This castle, first built in AD136 and later extended by Bermini. From the roof we saw a wonderful vista of Rome and the Tibes River.

Next over the river to the Piazza di Spagna. By this time we were so tired that we could not climb the Spanish steps only sit at the attractive fountain at the foot. On then to the Cometerum Capuccinorum on the Via Veneto near the Piazza Barberini where the monks have made decorations out of the skeletons of their dead brothers – morbid but worth a visit. A quick look at the famous Via Veneto and then a bus back to the Termini to catch our 35 to the tent. A long two days in Rome – very exhausting but oh so worth it. 

Tuesday 16  September

Woke early today to the sound of light rain – which soon cleared – left tent, having emptied car! for garage. Pleasant man who said service (short one) plus mending wipers would be about 4700 lire. Leaving the car we walked to Piazza Vescono, caught # 35 bus to main station (Temini) for 50 lire each. Went into tourist office to obtain the usual excellent street plan free (why people buy maps I’ll never know!). Then to Italian Auto club to complaint about Autotrade cost. As we thought we had been overcharged and tomorrow are going to see man about it. Next back to the station, caught the # 20 bus headed “Circolane Sinistr” which for 50 lire drive right round city i.e. round walls, up to Vatican etc.

We got out at the Coliseum and had lunch overlooking the Amphitheatre. What thin cats there are and 2 English women are in Roma raising money to feed them! They must be mad. The Coliseum can be entered free if in possession of YHA “pass” (saving 150 lire each). Built in AD80, parts are still in good condition. We saw the Arco di Constantino erected to commemorate Constantine’s victory over his rival Mascentius in AD312. A longish walk with a visit on the way to Basilica di Massenzio, now a church but was the courts and exchange to Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) overlooking the Roman Forum (closed unfortunately).

The steps and approaches were designed by Michelangelo and the beautiful bronze statue of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius on horseback overlooking the Via Vuttorio Emanuele. From there it was a short walk to the Pantheon at Piazza della Rotonda, the only complete building of ancient Rome left standing. Built by Agrippa in the time of Augustus Caesar (around 27BC) as a temple to Venus and Mars. From here to Piazza Colonna for a coffee, and with living feet to see the beautiful 18th century Fontana di Treri, showing Neptune in a chariot drawn by two tritons – we did not throw the 2 coins over our shoulder.

 From the fountain a walk to the Termini and # 35 back to collect car. Bill in fact came to 3133 lire so quite pleased. Back to tent via shop for some 3/6 Chianti, exhausted!

Monday 15 September

Early start, despite sleepless night, and into Florence. Parked the car easily and walked up to Piazzale Michelangelo, a high square atop a hill overlooking all Florence. Early morning this was a truly breathtaking view. 

Then down into the city to visit the Piazza della Signora – a main square overlooked by the lovely outdoor sculpture of the Loggia and the high white statue of Neptune. Next into the Palazzo della Signoria (Palazzo Vecchoo) – a beautiful place where some of Florence’s most historic events have taken place. Of special interest was the Hall of 500 and the views of the city from the palace’s roof and towers. 

A short walk took us to the Baptistery opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Here doors by Lorenzo Chiberti (27 years to make) depict scenes from the Old Testament in glittering gold. (Michelangelo on seeing them said “These doors are fit to stand at the gates of Paradise!”) Inside one colourful 13th century miscues which cover the high ceiling. Across the road we entered the cathedral with its simple lines and high soaring dome – a beautiful church. On next to the leather factorise around the Church of Santa Croce (note to buy, prices “upped” for Americans but best selection). Lunch of pizza and wine and then we returned to the car for the easy drive to Rome. It would have been but for the wiper motor packing up. And of course it was raining – kept speed up and the wind helped clear the rain. Arrived at Rome, set up camp at camping and had early night ready for Rome tomorrow. 

Sunday 14 September

Woke up to pouring rain and so stayed in bed until it stopped at about 11.00. This was quite welcome as the previous night we had been to a sardine party given by the camp staff. This was free and the fish, freshly caught, was cooked over a wood fire. Got to bed, after much singing, about 1.00.

Packed up a very wet tent and set off for Florence via Padora – Fewara and Bologna. An uneventful drive made at a high average speed. It was still raining in Florence so we decided to stay at the YH. So had every other camper it seemed but we got in okay. Despite the low price, I was disgusted with the men’s accommodation – two tier bunk beds crammed into a fairly small room. Many rooms like this plus more bunks in the corridor. 

A very nasty smell hung about and my worst fears were founded when time came for lights out. Once again it was Italians causing trouble – talking and even playing the radio [gosh]! Still on the credit side the food was good and cheap and the villa (the story goes it was Mussolini’s Mistresses) delightful. We drove into town to see Florence at dusk – a truly beautiful city, a beauty that cannot be described (at least by my pen) nor can it be accurately photographed. 

[so I did not try]

Saturday 13 September

Today’s tourist day so back to the 700 lire parking chaos. 1st to San Marco to see what a difference daylight makes – well very much. The city is still impressive but now one sees the effect of water – dark wet buildings and smell. Not bad everywhere but noticeable in the smaller canals.

 A long queue at San Marco so a long walk to buy 2 aerogrammes and then onto Fondamente Nuora to  cross to Murano to see one of many glass blowing factories. I will now remove Jews from 1st place as traders and put Italian there. I personally found the whole atmosphere very unpleasant. True you can watch glass-blowing free but with a tip plate waiting for you. Salesmen follow you around the showroom talking like records, “we ship goods to all parts of the world”. Ummm!!

Took ferry back and walked to S Maria Formosa square for a drink and a rest. Wrote postcards and letters and then onto San Marks. Well worth the visit to this twice re-built church. Pay the combined 150 litre tickets and saw tower, jewels, and altar backing. From the balcony got a superb view of Central and Easter Venice. Now into the Palace of the Doges.

What a place, vast panelled rooms in both courts and meeting places including the Room of the Council of Ten (Star chamber type!!) and the cells and moaning bridge (prisoners on way to execution gave it this name). Back into the square and a walk across to Riallo bridge and the self service restaurant of Rosticcera and Bartolomeo at 5423 Calle della Bissa.

Here we had noodle soup, white wine and pizza for a cost of 8/-. Back to Roma and to camp site to write up two days’ diaries. Tomorrow to Florence.

Friday 12 September

Up early and had breakfast overlooking the still blue waters of Lake Come. Packed up camp slowly and set off for Venice via Lecco Bergamo, onto the motorway to Camping Fusina 3 km south of Venice. Pleasant camp site just past the industrial zone with, in the high season, a ferry across to Venice. 

Had early dinner and drove into Venice. Parked car in multi-story car park with the most unorganised methods possible. Lots of little Italians doing nothing but giving out tickets, stamping or signing them! Ah well! Caught the slow Lina boat from Roma to San Marco. Slow indeed!! But at night well worth the time and 75 lire each. 

Walked through the beautiful square and side streets back to the Rial Bridge. Here we had 2 expensive beers. Should have had wine or coffee and boarded the ferry back to Rema. Collected car and returned to camp and slept. 

Thursday 11 September

We have to leave – what a pity – Basel is a beautiful town but we must move on (we should perhaps have planned a year and not 4 months). Back to Zurich, on and past Chur and then into the magnificent Swiss and Italian Alps. 

On a secondary road we cross the highest mountains at 4120 feet through the Sipluga Pass. Again no trouble with the Customs, except for an exuberant Italian Automobile Club man trying to sell passes for this and that and it took five minutes saying “no”. Got the petrol coupons stamped with entry date and off down a series of terrifying hairpin bends and snow tunnels to the town of Chiavenna. No border that we have crossed has been as absolute as here.

The high mountains have meant little or no intermingling – how poor the Italian farmers look compared to their Swiss neighbours. On down twisting lanes to the night camp stop at Colico at the head of Lake Camo. There were many camping grounds to choose from but this one near Abbey  Piona seems the best. Bottle of 3/- wine, good nosh and bed.